The BottomLine - September 30- October 13, 2005

Burgers to go Ape for!

By Felice Chiapperini

The hamburger is a quintessentially American phenomenon. In spite of its Teutonic-sounding name, the ground beef patty on a bun is recognized throughout the world as a hallmark of American culture. Unfortunately, it is not always enthusiastically embraced by other overseas, many of whom view it as part of US cultural imperialism and a threat to their own culture. In their eyes, the sight of the Golden Arches on their soil is tantamount to a beachhead, or a Trojan horse, allowing the "barbarians" to infiltrate and ultimately destroy their own cuisine and culture. Regrettably, this hostile reception may be, in part, due to the fact that the only hamburgers many outside of our country have ever eaten were at the Golden Arches. I am certain many would quickly change their opinion if they only had the opportunity to enjoy a real hamburger at a real "burger joint."

Happily, the spread of fast food establishments across our own country has not obliterated the classic burger joint. All of us have a favorite place where we can go to enjoy a "real" hamburger. The Coachella Valley is blessed with many options from a decent, grilled-to-order burger and fries, though some might not even consider this combination to be serious food. But it is an American icon and we should relish this treat that has no equal outside our borders.

There is a newcomer to the burger joint scene in Palm Springs that has hamburger aficionados buzzing. Located in an unassuming spot on a busy section of North Palm Canyon Drive, Grill-A-Burger is fast becoming a Mecca for those seeking the definitive burger and fries experience. The specialty hamburgers here are superb and the fries are simply the best I've ever tasted in the desert.

Spurred on by the rave reviews of our friends, Michael and I turned up early one Friday evening to check out Grill-A-Burger's fare. We had just returned from a two-week European vacation and the prospect of a good ole American burger has us both primed with expectation.

The restaurant consists of a modest, but comfortable covered outdoor patio, equipped with both misters and heaters to ensure year-round dining comfort. There is also a tiny indoor dining area adjacent to the colorful full bar. The atmosphere is casual and refreshingly unpretentious; shorts and flip-flops are appropriate dress and the bar looks like something straight out of a Jimmy Buffet song. But it is not the ambiance that makes this place special, it's the food. The burger is the thing here, and there are at lest a dozen variations on the regular menu, plus some monthly and daily specials. Featuring all the traditional favorites, proprietor Rick Ameil has also crated some unique toppings and has given many of the items clever and colorful names.

A burger with bacon and crumbled bleu cheese has been christened the "blu job," while the chili burger is aptly name the "chili chili bang bang," I opted for the #10, the "big fat Greek hamburger," topped with sliced Kalamata olives and feta cheese. This half-pound beauty was served up hot and juicy with tomato, lettuce and red onion. The tangy combination of the olives and the feta cheese proved to be a delightful compliment and no additional condiments were needed. Michael tried the "holy moly," covered with gobs of fresh guacamole and Swiss cheese. He, too, was in hamburger nirvana. But it only gets better. As the traditional side companion to the burger, French fries will normally just play a supporting role. But at Grill-A-Burger the fries are stars in their own right. Served a la carte ($2.95) and piping hot (the waiter will even warn you to be careful), these long-thick strips are prepared to perfection and are best enjoyed as is; ketchup is superfluous for these beauties.

Dieters and vegetarians can enjoy either the chicken burger (the "mother clucker"), or the meatless burger (the "Vitaveeta Vegamin"). All the burgers here are reasonably priced, starting from $4.95 and up to $10.95 for the "double whammy" with a pound of meat and triple cheese and bacon (why not call this one the "King Kong"?) There are also a couple of nice salads offered.

Grill-A-Burger has ambitious plans to offer a selection of dinner entrees in the near future. Owner Ameil has lots of dishes he is eager to share with his patrons, so look for some new additions to the menu soon.

In the meantime, the burgers and fries are Grill-A-Burger's claim to fame. Deservedly so. This unassuming "burger joint" offers some of the best hamburgers in the valley and the best fries around. Be sure to bring your foreign friends here, too. After a meal here they will surely say, God bless America!